A journey around Chianti Classico through the lens of Michael Godel
Michael Godel is one of the most knowledgeable ambassadors of the appellation with a significant following of wine lovers even beyond the Canadian borders. In his latest article on Godello.ca, An ambassador’s return, he reviews nearly 450 wines tasted in just over two years, between the Chianti Classico Collection 2022 and 37 estate visits, including a stop at Querciabella. Tasting wines in person with Michael is a great pleasure, only second to reading his far-reaching notes!
February 2022
Querciabella 2019 · Chianti Classico DOCG
“Changes are in the air as always in perpetual and forward-thinking motion and felt with most palpable readiness of promising concern in the Querciabella Annata. A wine of amalgamation, a triad of territorial delivery, each contribution as valid and poignant as the next. More to the point is how the grapes arrive and are poised to compliment, layer and celebrate each other. (…) Seriously, serious and not so much. Just knowing, ready and willing to please.” —MG
November 2021
Querciabella 2010 · Chianti Classico DOCG
“Immediate waft of frutta di bosco from what was Manfred Ing’s first vintage at Querciabella, having arrived on the 3rd of May. An auspicious start because it rained the entire month. (…) Was also the year new cement tanks and wood vats arrived for fermentation, plus the inaugural one as a 100 per cent Sangiovese. The fact is that’s all Sangiovese needed and usually needs. Time. So now 11 years forward the cured salumi style of Chianti Classico is just what this is pleased to be. A vanishing point of previous stylistic expression for a future that began with the advent of a new unfolding story. Not much fruit to talk about but plenty of Ruffoli and gastronomic pleasure in many ways.” —MG
November 2021
Querciabella Riserva 2018 · Chianti Classico DOCG
“The depth of fruit also shows breadth and width, a three-dimensionality for Sangiovese that reaches past aromas and onto the entirety of the surface area on the palate. Aided and abetted by picking that spreads across an entire month, only adding to the layers, especially in the tannins which are not simply of one ilk or another. There lies the crux of a Querciabella Riserva, when happened upon there comes about a squad of tannic complexities that cause a raciness and early tasting chaos. It’s wildly stimulating. Stupendo.” —MG
November 2021
Querciabella Gran Selezione 2017 · Chianti Classico DOCG
“Not a wine of wood (and this was aged in old Grandi Botti), but a Gran Selezione about transparency. The soil is Arenaria sandstone and Galestro which can’t help at this elevation to gift a hint of orange rind and an uncanny flintiness. Only Ruffoli smells like this and with tannins so tightly wound mixed with the intense liveliness of that 2017 acidity. (…) Vibrancy at peak mixed with pure fruit emotion makes this Gran Selezione a true force of place and nature.” —MG
November 2021
Batàr 2019 · IGT Toscana
“Batàr 2019 shows as much fruit substance and creamed texture as ever before while also a chiselling that’s at the top of its very special game. Fine-tuning always on the move and so focus, precision and finesse are unparalleled for white wine made from this land. Drink 2023-2032.” —MG
November 2021
Camartina 2017 · IGT Toscana
“A wine to handle with kid gloves and looking at it now there is no loss of liveliness, nor are the tannins hard to handle. Au contraire, there is grace and there are pleasantries in round abound with a red cherry to berry fruit compendium ready and willing to receive the structural parts. Surely a beneficial location for 2017 fruit, replete with that season’s acidity and so well managed fermentative activities bring about a really age-able Camartina.” —MG
November 2021
Palafreno 2017 · IGT Toscana
“Much freshness retained and perhaps a slight hyperbole in merlot’s verdancy but also if you close your eyes, «I see something blue…» notes Manfred Ing, and yes as if a Petit Verdot blue fruit notation, with the soil idea coming through as a compact set of tannins in dense grains. A big vintage.” —MG
November 2021
Turpino 2017 · IGT Toscana
“Has emerged from its hard shell, albeit incrementally with much further to go. A first stage of rounding out, fruit happier, and still this Mediterranean feel of all the Querciabella wines. A wilder component and a marine streak, a bit rugged and a sense of the Maremma very much indeed.” —MG
