Jamie Goode on Querciabella’s Vegan Biodynamics

Vegan biodynamics: Jamie Goode tastes its way through Querciabella’s seminal winemaking evolution.

In the world of wine journalism, Jamie Goode stands out for his scientific background and PhD in plant biology. An award-winning wine writer, lecturer, wine judge, and book author, in 1999, Goode founded the wineanorak.com, today one of the world’s most popular and long-standing wine websites.

In Tuscany, white wine hasn’t been taken very seriously, but this wine (Batàr) was the first white Supertuscan. —Jamie Goode

Batàr 2018 · 94/100
This is quite tight but has lovely pear and peach notes, as well as some citrus. So refined and smooth, but with a lovely mineral, acid core that suggests there’s potential for development. —JG

Batàr 2017  · 95/100
A real mix of flavours here, with a long, spicy finish. There’s also some jasmine character here: really hard to capture in words. —JG

Batàr 2013  · 95/100
The richness here is present, but it’s held in beautiful tension with some spicy minerality and freshness, with a long spicy finish. Lovely wine. —JG

Batàr 2011  · 94/100
It’s rich and peachy, with a grapey touch, showing lovely richness and almost and oiliness to the fruit. This has a really nice mineral undercurrant that runs through the finish, with complex spiciness. —JG

Batàr 2008  · 95/100
Shows nice restraint and still relatively youthful. Notes of toast and marzipan, too. I love the freshness here. —JG

Batàr 2002  · 92/100
There’s a freshness on the finish, and some structure and even some earthiness on the finish. Made in a slightly oxidative style it has a spicy savouriness and a touch of apricot, too. —JG

Batàr 1998  · 96/100
Layers of flavour here with real complexity: yellow fruits but also some citrus, and fine spicy, minerally notes – you’d never guess this was 23 years old. Very fine and expressive. —JG

Mongrana 2019 · 91/100
Stylish, a little stony, with compact but ripe fruit, and nice drinkability. Sweetly fruited, berryish and a bit crunchy. —JG

Turpino 2017 · 93/100
There are lovely contrasts here between the fine, floral silky red fruits and the fairly substantial structure from the tannins and acidity. Such finesse, and quite a bit of ageing potential. It’s not an easy wine, nor is it seductive, but it has beauty. —JG

Querciabella Chianti Classico 2018 · 95/100
The palate is supremely fresh and balanced with lovely focus to the fresh, elegant red berry fruits, as well as nice herby, slightly spicy complexity. Really bright and expressive. —JG

Querciabella Chianti Classico 1998 · 94/100
Beautiful aromatics of tar, spice, blackcurrant, gravel, fine herbs and cherry. Mature and showing evolution, but with freshness and nice ripe fruit. —JG

Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva 2017 · 95/100
Has a real grip to it: this is benchmark Sangiovese from good terroirs. —JG

Camartina 2016 · 95/100
Brooding and really intense, and quite impressive. Finishes dry and taut, but there’s some much potential here for future development. This is a serious wine that holds up impeccably over three days after opening. It will go the distance. —JG

Camartina 2008 · 94/100
Very fine and detailed with a nice spiciness and lush but structured fruit. —JG

Camartina 2003 · 16.5
There’s a savoury element here, and some grip on the finish, but also lovely sweet black fruits.The product of a hot vintage, there’s certainly a dry tannic edge here, but it works really well. —JG


You can read the full article and tasting notes on the pages of Wine Anorak.

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