Susan Hulme reviews 10 vintages of Batàr

Susan Hulme tastes ten vintages of Batàr in a vertical spanning from 1998 to 2018.

Aside from being a Decanter Magazine and DWWA Judge, Susan Hulme is a regular critic on Decanter’s panel tastings and judges for the International Wine Competition. She is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers, a former chairman of the Association of Wine Educators (AWE) and the current editor of the AWE newsletter. Since 2007 she has been on the Institute of Masters of Wine events committee.

Susan tasted ten vintages of Batàr from 1998 to 2018.

“The name Batàr is in part an homage to the great Burgundian Bâtard wines; illegitimate also because Batàr is a white wine in Sangiovese country.” —Susan Hulme

The follow-up article is available on decanter.com.

 

Batàr 2018 · 95
The flavours are full of salty juiciness with exotic fruit, cream and orange rind notes. This is still very young and tightly wound, not yet expressing its full potential – but that potential is great. —SH


Batàr 2017  · 94
I love the clearly delineated aromas of honey and white flowers followed by a leaner, more angular, savoury palate. A salty, nervy style with ‘powerful chewiness.’ —SH


Batàr 2016  · 97
Bright green-gold in colour, it has plenty of richness and concentration but in a focused, pure and precise framework. It has a wonderful seamless flow across the palate, so harmonious with a softly melting texture. —SH


Batàr 2014  · 93
Pale lemon in colour and super-clean, it has a more delicate nose of lemon, spice and mineral notes, and a gentle creamy texture with spicy flavours. A great example of what can be done in a lesser vintage. —SH


Batàr 2013  · 96
One of the stars of the tasting, the 2013 has a restrained nose with cream, lemon pie, peach and flint. It is linear, pure and focused on the palate, with a very long, savoury finish harmoniously integrated into the body of the wine. —SH


Batàr 2011  · 93
Creamy milk pudding top notes settle into fragrant white flowers, orange rind and cinnamon spice. The palate is lighter but with a silky, round texture and an elongated savoury finish. —SH


Batàr 2005  · 92
The wine’s maturation in 50% new oak shows – there is an exotic oak aroma, like a dusty cloak of orange spice before it reveals more honey, citrus and cream. —SH


Batàr 2002  · 96
As an expression of almost pure Pinot Bianco it is so surprising and hauntingly distinctive. A beautiful fragrance of honey, orange blossom, orange rind and spice is followed by a meltingly seductive texture and a savoury finish. —SH


Batàr 2001  · 94
Sauternes-like colour but a contrasting nose of mineral, flint and fresh mushroom. It has the Batàr signature of super-silky texture, yet flinty, savoury, nutty flavours. —SH


Batàr 1998  · 93
Remarkably the 1998 is still fresh and alive after 23 years! It is deep gold with mature aromas and flavours of nut, brandy snap, honey, mushroom, spice and toasted lemon rind. It has a beautiful texture and weight and still plenty of freshness though the fruit is fading now. —SH

 

You can read the full tasting notes on the subscription pages of decanter.com.

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