Jancis Robinson is one of the very few wine writers worldwide who can justifiably claim to be a household name. Her latest review of Batàr 2017 revamps the long-standing analogy with a Burgundy Grand Cru.
Batár is widely revered and recognised by critics around the world as the ultimate white Super Tuscan. However, few reviews create as much excitement as those from Jancis Robinson MW OBE. While our wines regularly appear on the pages of JancisRobinson.com, the last time we had the pleasure, and honour, of being reviewed by Jancis Robinson in person was for an exceptional tasting of Camartina 2003.
According to Jancis Robinson, the complexity and age-worthiness of Batàr 2017, paired with its light almond flavours reminds of a particularly successful Corton-Charlemagne rather than a Bâtard-Montrachet, which is usually credited as the inspiration behind the genesis of Batàr. The comparison with a Grand Cru is nothing new, and Ms Robinson herself is partially to blame. Until recently, Batàr featured in her illustrious Oxford Companion to Wine as “the most ambitious Pinot Blanc outside of Burgundy.”
This is certainly complex and ageworthy. With its light almond flavour it seems slightly more like a Very sophisticated wine that seems rich initially but then finishes sleek and lively with layers of honey and lime. Very neat and rewarding now but it clearly signals that it will go through many different stages. Well done! Serious wine for the table. —JR
It was arguably too long since the last time Jancis Robinson tasted Batàr. Through almost three decades, the style of this wine has changed and revealed a defined fruit profile and leaner character. The observable and durable effects of climate change on seasonal patterns and weather extremities have directly influenced our winemaking. The quality and precision of our work have become paramount to retain freshness and tension.
The vintage 2017 was characterised by icy cold winter and a warm, long and dry summer. With minimal bâtonnage and nearly one month less of ageing in French oak barrels than usual, Batàr 2017 makes for an exquisite and elegant wine that as Jancis Robinson points out, can be enjoyed at a young age as well as after a few years of evolution.